FWD RACE CAR MORE CROSS WEIGHT MAKE LOOSE OR TIGHT DRIVER
Given that the car is going to understeer like all hell on exit, this may be the kind of car that benefits from a "pitch and catch" style driving, over-rotating the car on entry (easy with load sensitive tires) to get pointed quickly and then the understeer out won't be as big a deal.Ī FWD car will tend to have power on understear tendency ,just because you will have to transmit longitudinal (traction) and side force on the front tyres and only side forces rear.Īssuming same tyres front rear ,the car and driver will have difficulty to get the rear tyre temps up,wheras the fronts will tend to overheat.įree regulations would call for different compounds at least ,better yet even different tyre width to get that balance back. Car will feel good going in the first direction but if you try to change directions rapidly the response will be nonlinear. If the car is severely undersprung it will feel lazy and probably snap oversteer in esses and chicanes. Lowering the front rideheight with respect to the rear (or raising the rear with respect to the front) will also shift the balance toward O/S a bit. Stiffen the rear with respect to the front and the balance will be a lot more neutral. Only way to get the car to really rotate would be something like a real sharp lift-off on entry, or handbrake, Scandinavian flick, etc.Īs has been said, spring and bar changes will give the most noticeable balance change. FWD cars, overdriving the fronts on exit will be ridiculous U/S.
RWD cars with enough power can overdrive the rear tires to rotate the car around. Weight transfer to the rear will tighten any car up on-throttle. In any event you would be hard pressed to get the car to O/S on-throttle. You don't want oversteer on exit if you want to be quick. Put more and better rubber on the ground.ĬAVEAT: I was good enough to get into General Motors Institute, but NOT good enough to graduate! Stiffer springs reduce roll, but go to stiffer shocks, too! Now I'm not brave enough to know what its limits are!īasics - a stiffer rear sway bar will reduce understeer. (NeoGens are designed for lowered cars with more camber) Re-aligned to stock settings.Ĩ - 1 inch wider 15 inch wheels all around with 205-50 Nitto NeoGens instead of stock 195-65 Falkens. Lower front than rear because more weight up front and better aero. Adding a rear bar reduced understeer a LOT.Ĥ - Upper strut tower braces added front and rear.ĥ - Added lower brace connecting mounting points of lower front suspension arms.ħ - Lowered the front about 1.5 inches. My handling went from fair to MUCH better after these changes:ġ- Solid front sway bar (Suspension Techniques) replaced the hollow original.Ģ - Rear had some excuse for a sway bar (a torsion bar inside the hollow axle), but I added an additional sway bar (Suspension Techniques)in back.
Independent front with struts solid rear axle. I hope some of our more knowledgeable members will help, but here's a starting point.
0 kommentar(er)
